Paragliding — The Three Regions We Route

By Kafele Herring

Three regions. Three completely different stories about what the sport can give you. One is a coast and a culture. One is a cliff over an ocean. One is a postcard you cannot believe is real until you are looking down at it. Here is what each one actually offers, in order, with the takeoff, the air time, the landing, and the reason any of it is worth the flight.

Vietnam. Da Nang and the central coast.

Where you take off: The Son Tra Peninsula above Da Nang, the headland that holds the Lady Buddha statue. You stand on a ridge looking out at a wide blue bay with the city to the south, the East Sea opening to the horizon, and the white statue itself watching from across the hill.

What the air smells like: Salt, jasmine, woodsmoke from the cooking fires in the villages below, the faint sweetness of mangoes ripening on roadside fruit stands. By mid-morning, when you launch, the air carries the smell of the central coast getting on with its day.

What you see in the air: From altitude the white sand of My Khe Beach unrolls to the south for five miles, lined with the long-tail wooden fishing boats that have worked these waters for centuries. Inland, the karst peaks of the Marble Mountains rise out of the rice fields like teeth, riddled with caves that Buddhist monks have used for meditation since the seventh century. Further out: the harbor of Da Nang, the curve of the Han River cutting through the city, the silhouette of Hải Vân Pass climbing north toward Huế. The water below shifts between turquoise inside the reef line and deep cobalt past it.

Where you land: A wide grass field at the base of the peninsula. The crew is there with water. Within thirty minutes you are back on the coast road heading south.

What you do next: Dinner of central-Vietnamese cao lầu and mì quảng at one of the open-air kitchens in Hoi An, the lantern-lit old town an hour south. A massage at the InterContinental Da Nang Sun Peninsula. A morning trip to the Golden Bridge at Bà Nà Hills, the colonial-era hill station above the city. The hotels we route to: InterContinental Da Nang Sun Peninsula Resort on the headland (designed by Bill Bensley, terraced down the cliff), or the Furama Resort on My Khe Beach.

Why fly here: Because the trip is two trips. The flying is the headline. The country is the substance. Vietnam at its central-coast best gives you a culture and a coastline most travelers do not see, and the flying connects you to the landscape from above before you spend the week inside it from below.

Indonesia. Bali, Timbis Beach.

Where you take off: The southern tip of the Bukit Peninsula, where the cliff falls one hundred and fifty meters straight down to the reef. You walk to the edge in flip-flops because that is the local style. The drop is so clean it doesn’t look real until you are running off it.

What the air smells like: Frangipani, salt, the faint incense from the daily offerings the Balinese leave at every cliff-edge shrine, and a constant warm breeze coming off the Indian Ocean. At sunset, woodsmoke from the cliff-side warungs grilling fish.

What you see in the air: Below you the water shifts from turquoise inside the reef to a cobalt blue that gets darker as it stretches to the horizon. On the right swell day you can see turtle pods cruising under the surface from a thousand feet up. To the south, the surf breaks of Uluwatu carve white lines through the blue, with the temple sitting on its own cliff and the monkeys patrolling the perimeter. The cliff lift is so reliable here that wings hold altitude for hours — this is where pilots come to practice their long-flight technique without working for it.

Where you land: The same cliff-top launch field you took off from, after you ride the ridge lift back. Or a small beach to the north of the headland, depending on how the wind moves through the afternoon.

What you do next: Sunset at Single Fin or at the cliff temple. A traditional Balinese massage at the Bulgari spa. Fresh-caught grilled snapper at Jimbaran Bay on the sand. A surf session at one of the breaks. The hotels we route to: Bulgari Resort Bali on the cliff above Uluwatu, COMO Uma Canggu for the lifestyle side, or Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan if you want to extend into Ubud.

Why fly here: Because nowhere else on the route is this much fun to fly without working for it. The ridge lift is forgiving. The wing holds altitude on its own. You spend most of the flight watching the ocean, not managing the wing. And the rest of Bali wraps around the flying days — the surf, the food, the sunsets, the spa work that the body actually needs.

New Zealand. Queenstown.

Where you take off: Coronet Peak above Queenstown, at 1,649 meters elevation. The launch is a wide alpine ridge with a view that stops conversation. To the east, the jagged spine of The Remarkables. To the west, the long sweep of Lake Wakatipu running between mountain ranges. To the south, the Shotover River gorge that the bungy-jumping circuit made famous.

What the air smells like: Pine, cold rock, mountain air with no humidity, the faint mineral smell that comes off glacial lakes. After sunset, woodsmoke from the chimneys of the lakeside town below.

What you see in the air: A landscape that looks computer-generated until you are inside it. The Remarkables rising straight out of the lake. The lake itself, a color of blue that does not occur in nature anywhere else — an aquamarine so clean and so impossible that wing pilots have described it as “flying over a swimming pool God designed.” Snow on the peaks year-round above 2,000 meters. The Shotover River cutting through the rock like a thin silver line. To the south, on a clear day, the start of the fjord country that becomes Milford Sound.

Where you land: A grass field on the valley floor outside Queenstown. The transfer back to town is a fifteen-minute drive through some of the most photographed alpine country on the planet.

What you do next: Wine bars on the Queenstown waterfront. Dinner at Skyline above the city, accessed by chairlift. Brewery boards at Cargo. Add a day at Milford Sound — the fjords on the southwest coast, waterfalls dropping straight into the saltwater, a landscape Rudyard Kipling called the eighth wonder of the world. The hotels we route to: Eichardt’s Private Hotel on the lakefront for the city stay, or Matakauri Lodge for the silence outside town.

Why fly here: Because it is the most cinematic paragliding experience on the planet. Other regions are quieter, warmer, more forgiving. Queenstown gives you the postcard. The reason you would fly from Atlanta or New York or London to fly here is that nowhere else on earth gives you a wing and a view of The Remarkables in the same minute. You can take it from photographs and still not understand the scale until your boots leave the ground. After one flight at Coronet, every other paragliding site you fly for the rest of your life is graded against this one.

Three regions. Three completely different reasons to come. Tell us which one matches where your head is at this season and we route the trip around it.

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